Top Tips for Bow Bucks

toptips

Originally Published in the Fall 2011 Edition of Rifle & Rod Magazine.

September in South Georgia brings high school football under the lights, marching band melodies floating on a fall breeze and most importantly – the opening of archery season for white-tailed deer. Every year more people join the elite group of hunters in Georgia that hunt white-tailed deer during archery season. These hunters must fend off mosquitoes, poisonous snakes and 90-degree temperatures, all for a chance at unwary deer that have yet to be educated by other hunters.

Unlike rifle hunting, bow hunting is an entirely different type of adventure. With today’s high-powered rifles, it’s not a challenging feat to drop a deer with one shot at distances of more than 200 yards. Because of the high amounts of energy behind a bullet traveling at such extreme rates of speed, a perfect shot isn’t required for a fast kill. But, with bow hunting, an almost perfect shot at an exact angle is required for a fast, clean kill. Add that with the fact that most archery hunters won’t take a shot of more than 30 yards and you’ve got an unbelievable disadvantage when it comes to trying to kill a deer with a bow versus a rifle.

But, don’t fret just yet, there’s still hope for killing a deer with a bow. Seasoned bowhunting veterans and rookies alike can learn a lot from other hunters. I’ve interviewed a few successful bow hunters from different regions of the Peach State to see what they consider the most important tips they could give other bow hunters.

Jeff Manley from The Rock, Ga. put down his rifle and has been bow hunting exclusively in 1996. Since converting to bow-only hunting, he has taken an average of three or four does a year and usually takes a mature buck once every three years. He was quick to say that he’s passed many 130- and 140-inch (antler size) 8- and 10-points for a shot at something bigger than the Pope-and-Young class buck he already has on his wall.

Jeff said the best piece of advice he could give any bow hunter was preparation. That goes for practicing every day, preparing your clothing well before the season and scouting for the best positions to hang stands.

“I start practicing almost daily in July to be prepared for bow season. With bow hunting is so important to make the perfect shot, and you’ve got to be able to do that even after holding your bow back for several minutes at a time. For that reason,  I try to shoot about 50 shots a day at about 45 to 50 yards. I even practice holding my bow back for several minutes at a time before I shoot so I can get my muscles toned for having to do that in the stand,” said Jeff.

He explained that practicing at greater distances made the shots of 15 to 30 yards he hopes to take in the stand seem that much easier. He explained he almost never takes shots of more than 30 yards unless it’s a perfect angle in an open environment where there isn’t much chance of the arrow hitting a limb and going off course.

Because a white-tailed deer’s number one defense is its nose and the ability to smell danger at long distances, Jeff is also very meticulous about the clothing he wears and how it is stored.

“Before the season begins I take all of the clothes that I’m going to wear and wash them in scent-killing detergent. Then I take several Scent-Lok bags, jumbo Zip-Loc bags work just as well, and I fill them full of leaves, tree bark and plants from the environment I will be hunting. I’ve got one set of clothes I wear for swamps, one set for hardwoods and another set for pines. I want my scent to be covered as much as possible in case a deer does get a whiff of me, it might not spook as bad,” said Jeff.

Jeff doesn’t rely on covering his scent alone to stay invisible to deer, he also will only hunt an area if the wind is right. Bow hunters should always hunt with the wind in their face and the deer approaching from upwind so the hunter’s scent is traveling away from the deer. Jeff said this stand position is a perfect scenario and might not always happen, but hunter’s should strive to position their stands in areas based on the normal wind conditions and only hunt them when the time is right.

“Not only do I only  hunt stands when the wind is perfect to hunt them, but I also walk out of my way to keep from spooking bedded deer with my scent before daylight. I have stands that I could easily pull a four-wheeler to the bottom and climb right up, but instead I walk almost a mile and a half from the other direction to keep from spooking deer I know are bedded close by. If I know there’s a  big buck in the area and there’s so many deer bedded around that I just can’t get in without spooking them, I’ll get there two hours before daylight and climb in my stand and wait,” said Jeff.

He said he always wears a safety harness while hunting from an elevated stand, and it is extremely important when getting in the stand two hours before daylight.

“I know a lot of people have a big problem with sleeping in the stand, but I hunt from Millennium lock-on stands which are extremely comfortable and almost impossible to fall out of. There’s still the possibility, but you’ve just got to be safe as you can and wear your harness at all times,” said Jeff.

Another seasoned bow hunter, Jeff Horne, originally from Bainbridge, Ga. who now lives in Valdosta, spends a lot of time hunting public land near Bainbridge. He not only hunts public land, but he also kills a lot of deer with a bow on public land, which is a difficult task within itself.

Horne was also quick to say that preparation was one of the most important parts of hunting, especially with a bow on public land that anyone has access to hunt.

Jeff said the first thing and probably the most important thing he does is a year-round process that he can complete without ever leaving the house.

“I spend hours looking at topographical maps.  Looking for particular terrain changes that give me the advantages needed for bow hunting.  The vast majority of my hunting is done on public land and thankfully around Bainbridge there is more than enough for one person to hunt.  This large amount of land can make it hard to narrow down spots sometime and with limited time actually afield, I have to be in the stand when I can go,” he said.

Jeff’s time in the field is maximized by focusing on key features which have been productive in the past for many different reasons.

“When looking at the maps, I look for creeks and other natural funnels for deer, but I also look for spots that are the farthest away from any road.  Most people use the satellite view on Google earth (which shows actual satellite images) but I have found that the terrain layer is very useful as well. Early in the season I look for small ditches that run through big stands of planted pines.  The ditches show up on the map and are a great spot to look for crab apples, which can also be found on old fence rows and firebreaks. I love to hunt big creek bottoms but during bow season I have much better luck hunt in planted pines.  There is a noticeable change in the temperature from a muggy creek bottom to a breezy stand of pines.  There is also usually less mosquitoes and more food for them in the pines during bow season,” said Jeff.

After finding these areas that “should” be productive for bow hunting, Jeff keys in and starts to look for actual signs that deer are in the area. Just because the area has food and is secluded from human interaction, doesn’t necessarily mean the deer are using it.

“Don’t waste your time on spots that are just “pretty.”  With ample land (public) to hunt, I only hunt setups that have it all, bedding, food and water.  Unfortunately, it’s not a perfect world so sometimes you have to pick, and then I revert back to which one has more sign,” he said.

Jeff Horne also agreed with Jeff Manley on only hunting a certain area when the wind and conditions are absolutely correct so you don’t mess up your chances at a buck of a lifetime.

“The key here is to only hunt your spots when the conditions are perfect!  As tempting as it is to hunt your best stand opening morning, don’t do it unless the wind is perfect.  The best chance you have at killing a mature buck is the first time you hunt a stand – so it’s worth the wait until everything is perfect until you hunt those best spots.  To add to this it critical that you have a way to get into the stand and out of the stand without being noticed.  This is even more important with bow hunting since you’re much closer to the deer than you would be with a rifle,” he said.

Kevin Cox from Milledgeville, Ga. is an avid bow hunter as well. He also put down his gun for good in 1996 and now only hunts deer with a bow. Like both Jeffs, Kevin likes to control his scent as a main means of camouflage from the deer.

“I keep all my hunting clothes in a plastic container until I put them on when I reach my hunting area. I wash them in baking soda or other odorless detergent and I only wear rubber boots as well,” said Kevin.

He also said he would not hunt a stand if he was unable to reach it without spooking deer or if the wind wasn’t right to hunt that particular stand.

When it comes to finding where the deer are going to be, Kevin said it’s all about food within the vicinity of a bedding area. This is particulary the case with mature bucks when the weather is still very hot.

“I really key on evening hunts in the early bow season in Georgia. Most mature bucks will get up just before dark and head to their feeding area. Many times in the mornings they are back to bed before light and your chances of spooking them are much greater. With that being said, I try and find the preferred food source of the bucks in September. That is usually agricultural crops like soybeans, corn and peanuts in some parts of the state but mainly soft mass where I hunt in Central Georgia. I key on persimmons if they are available. Crab apples, muscadines and early dropping acorns also. If I had to pick one food source to hunt near, it would be persimmons by a large margin. Bucks love persimmons! Over the years, I have taken more than 10 mature bucks from stands over looking this candy. Two were 5 1/2 years old and several more that were 4 1/2. The key is finding a persimmon tree or trees that are loaded with fruit and are in or near the thickest place you can find,” said Kevin.

He said the difference between mature bucks and younger bucks and does, is that the younger deer will linger further from a bedding area.

“You can shoot deer over the persimmons on field edges, but they are likely to be does or small bucks. The big bucks don’t move far in these warm temperatures. You must find the food that is near the bedding areas and the closer the better. When I hunt mornings in the early season, I try and hunt trails from the food to the bed if there is enough distance between the two. If not, I stay out except on evening hunts when the wind is favorable.,” said Kevin.

With the help of these three bow hunting greats, you should have a lot better understanding of the dedication it takes to kill a deer with a bow. It isn’t a point and click act like rifle hunting, and it takes a lot of preparation. So, get off of the couch and put some miles on your boots so you can get that buck of a lifetime without ever picking up a gun.

 

 

Second Guessing Can Go Either Way

doe

Last weekend kicked off Georgia’s archery season for white-tailed deer, and this guy was pumped that the 20-year-old sawtooth oak stand he was planning to hunt was dumping acorns like a rain storm. The only problem with that is that deer aren’t very interested in acorns when they can fill up on peanuts for hours without ever moving from one spot. I did some late evening field watching and found out the deer were coming in the field late, but heard from passer-bys that they were also feeding early. Instead of sitting in my planned treestand over a food plot dropping acorns like candy, with some added pears poured throughout, I decided to hope I could get one on the trail I’d found into the peanuts. Needless, to say I picked the wrong stand and I climbed down early to try to put a stalk on whatever might be in the food plot about 500 yards away.

I snuck within about 70 yards before I realized  a fat doe was munching up acorns in a bright red summer coat, just 12 yards from my treestand. I decided I’d kneel down and watch her and see how she was acting before I’d choose my direction of stalk. Since she wasn’t very jumpy I decided to wait on her to put her head back down and sneak down the same road I was walking to try to get a little closer. Only problem with that was that she saw me stand back up and then we had a stand-off for about 15 minutes before she realized she hadn’t a clue what I was standing as still as a tree in the road. At that point she decided to put the stalk on me and crept up within 10 yards of me, never walking behind a tree large enough to give me a window to draw my bow. The entire time she never took her eyes off me and continued to half stomp her feet and try to get me to move. When she finally came within a few feet of the one large tree I needed her to walk behind to draw, she decided I definitely was not anything that had ever been there before and bounded off on her way still wondering what I was.

To rub in the fact that I chose the wrong stand, my dad sent me a picture taken from the trail camera under the stand of said doe having her breakfast at the exact time I put the stalk on her. I guess I could’ve got lucky and picked right on my trail stand, but I should’ve stuck with the food source like my gut told me to do. I’ll get her next time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Choosing The Best Deerstand

Choosing the best treestand

If you think the one deerstand you have five of is the best deerstand for every application, you’ve totally lost it. The truth is, there is no perfect deerstand for every situation. Just like you wouldn’t use a paring knife to butcher a cow, you wouldn’t use a climber in a 4-year-old pine stand. Finding the right deerstand is about finding the right location first and foremost, then you can make the deerstand decision. Because, you can have a reclining couch on a telephone pole and be able to sit in it all day, but if there aren’t any deer using the area, then you haven’t accomplished a whole lot.

Common Persimmon

Step 1: Scouting is the number one thing you can do to pick the perfect deerstand. You’ve got to find the perfect location. Which means, you’ve gotta put some miles on your boots. You can’t just throw a trail cam on a tree

Japanese Honeysuckle

and pour some corn in front of it because: 1. You can’t hunt over the corn, and: 2. once the corn is gone, the deer aren’t going to use the area anymore. So, walk around and look for a food source. During the early season it can be acorns, wild muscadines, blackberries, old apple orchards, persimmon trees, japanese honeysuckle or a variety of other native plants that the deer are feeding on. Also look for deer droppings while searching for a food source. This will give a good indication of some travel routes.

Step 2: Find the area where the deer begin their journey to the food source. Most deer bed in the same area year-round unless something causes them to move. They are always going to bed in a thick area with a variety of exit opportunities. Most deer want to bed somewhere where they will either hear or smell you coming from a long way off. Look around for the thick stuff, or even better, look at a satellite photo. That place you never want to walk through, because it’s so thick, is most likely where they are bedding. You can walk around in there and look for spots where the ground cover has been laid down, or you can trust your instinct. You’ll find out soon enough if they are actually bedding there.

Step Three: Set your deerstand up in between the food source and the bedding area. The closer to the food source, the more likely to see the deer, but you also don’t want to spook them. Remember, they will smell where you have traveled in their domain, so keep you scent at a minimal during your travels, and try to go more than just the day before you hunt, or before a rain shower (it will wash away your smell.) Remember the wind while setting up your stand as well. You always want to be downwind from the animal, no matter how well you think your scent controller is working. The wind is normally the same everyday in the evenings and mornings, so plan on hunting this location one of those two times. You can set up another stand on the other side for alternative time use to be right with the wind.

Step Four: Back to the original question. Choosing the correct deerstand. What kind of trees are in the area? If there is a forked tree offering good cover and a perfect shooting height, then you need a hang on

What Not To Buy

stand in that fork. You can’t climb a climber past a fork, unless you’re good, or magic. If there are a lot of mature tall trees, pick one small enough to get a climber around and go up it with a climber. Don’t cut off every branch around you when you reach your desired height, you do want to have some back cover to break up your outline. You can move a climber fairly easily, so if you aren’t in the right spot, move a few yards before next time when you climb down. If you plan on hunting this spot all year, then maybe a ladder stand, or lean-to, is more appropriate. They take some time to set up, but you’re gonna be leaving it year round. If there aren’t any good trees in the right area, then try a ground blind or a natural blind. Just remember you are more apt to be seen and smelled on a deer’s level than you are 25-feet up a tree.

He may look like a goober, but at least he won't be in a wheelchair when he falls.

Step Five: Pick a stand you are comfortable with. Do NOT buy the cheapest stand available. Cheap stands squeak, and cheap stands are heavy and cheap stands are not comfortable. Buy a used good stand, instead of a brand new el cheapo model. Make sure it’s safe, and practice shooting from it before opening day of the season. From experience, it isn’t fun to realize the stand you were told to sit in by someone else has a shooting rail you can’t shoot over with your bow while you watch a doe walk on by.

Step Six: WEAR A SAFETY HARNESS! If you climb up in a tree without one on. You are an idiot. Plain and simple. You obviously disrespect your life and the others who care for you. If you can’t afford a safety harness, sit on the ground.

Now you have the “perfect” treestand for any location. If you think I’ve missed any tips. Feel free to chime in in the comment section below.

What’s Your Thoughts?

Register For 2010 Georgia Alligator Season Hunting Tags

It's time to apply for a Georgia Alligator Hunting tag.

If you think hunting is boring and slow-paced, you just haven’t experienced alligator hunting yet. Trying to pull a prehistoric creature only a few feet shorter than your boat, into your boat, can lead to some pretty interesting experiences. Add in snapping jaws capable of removing limbs in one bite, and a tail that can knock a person unconscious and into the water, and “slow-paced” isn’t a word that comes to mind. If it sounds like an adrenaline pumping experience you’d be into, it’s that time of year again to register to have your name in the pot for the Georgia 2011 Alligator Hunting Season quota hunt selection. Hunters have until July 31 to register for the selection and can do so by going to www.gohuntgeorgia.com and clicking the “Quota Hunt” tab. You’ll have to register an account if you don’t already have one, but then you’ll be able to manage all your Georgia quota hunts easily. Even non-residents are eligible for Georgia Alligator quota hunts with hunters from 42 different states applying in 2008 making more than 10 percent of the total applicants. The author with a 8' 8" gator he and his hunting group killed during the 2008 Georgia Alligator Season.

While hunters trying for the first  time have little to no chance at being drawn, they will still receive one priority point toward a better chance at being selected next year. Most hunters probably won’t be selected until their third year or better but once you’ve experienced alligator hunting, you won’t want to miss a year. First-timers will probably want to go with a guide, or at least an experienced hunter, but after that they should be able to take one on by without a guide. It isn’t something anyone would want to try solo because it will take at least two people, but more likely three, to take even a small Georgia alligator. Which makes it an even better idea to find a group of friends and all register for alligator tags. Then after a few years you can use your priority points wisely to insure at least one person in the group will get a tag. The person with the tag might get to attach the initial line to the gator with a bow or harpoon, but it takes teamwork to harvest a gator and everyone in the hunting party can proudly say they’ve killed an alligator.

Georgia Alligator Hunting Resources

PDF article of a First-Timer’s Guide to Alligator Hunting: Download Here

Georgia DNR’s Alligator Hunting brochure: Click Here

Georgia DNR’s Alligator Hunting regulations Web Page : Click Here

Georgia DNR’s Alligator Tag Selection Odds: Click Here

Georgia DNR’s 2009 Alligator Season Harvest Summary: Click Here

To book a guided trip with guide Mike Sloan at Lake Seminole’s Wingate’s Lunker Lodge give him a call at (229) 246-0658.

Make A DIY Tandem Kayak Rack

Make your own DIY Tandem Kayak rack for only $30

After purchasing kayaks for several hundred dollars a piece, you probably don’t want to spend another couple hundred on a tandem kayak rack to hold both. If you have an existing roof rack, you have an advantage of being able to hold at least one kayak, but most vehicles won’t hold two kayaks without some sort of aftermarket kayak rack. You could purchase a tandem Yakima or Thule kayak rack for a very hefty price tag, or you could build your own DIY Tandem Kayak roof rack, and it’ll only cost you about $30.

What you’ll need is:

  • 3/4″ EMT or Metal Conduit
  • 4 1/4″ J Hooks (which can be purchased at Lowe’s on the fence hardware aisle)
  • 1/4″ drill bit
  • Punch
  • 4 PVC Caps

If you want to paint the rack black to match your ride, you’ll also need:

  • Self-etching primer (so the other paint will stick well)
  • Black Spray Paint (any brand will do, but Krylon Fusion seems to stick well to anything, including the PVC caps)

First, you’ll need to measure the bottom of your kayaks to see how much length you need to hold them both flat (to reduce wind resistance) and then cut the EMT to fit. Next you’ll need to lay your EMT on the roof rack and mark it with a permanent marker for where you should drill your holes.

Next, you’ll need to punch the mark with a punch so the drill bit will have something to catch on. You can try to do it without the punch,but you won’t be successful. So, just buy a punch for a few bucks.

Then drill your holes and put your j-bolts through and hook onto the existing roof rack for a preliminary fit. You will have too long of a bolt and have to cut it down, so mark your bolts about an 1/8″ past the nuts you used to secure them while you have it on the vehicle. Instead of taking the bolts off and cutting them in a vise, just use a hack saw and cut them off on top of the car. (Don’t scratch the car with the saw). If you don’t have the nuts on the bolts when you do this, it will be very hard to start the nuts onto the bolt. When you remove the nuts it will recreate any thread you may have damaged or at least make it easier in the long run when putting the rack on and off the car.

Now, take it all apart and primer everything you’ve got. You may also want to wipe it all down with mineral spirits before primering to remove any oils from your hands. Then, apply several coats of black spray paint to all of it. For additional protection you may also apply several coats of clear gloss spray paint. Do not apply matte clear coat onto glossy paint, or it will grey the paint and look weird, believe me I’ve done that before and had to repaint an entire toolbox.

If you’re feeling really handy, you can also add I-hooks for tie downs and foam pipe insulation to reduce vibrations. Now you’ve got an easily removable DIY Tandem Kayak Rack for your existing luggage rack without spending a fortune. Get on the lake and have some fun.